Tuesday 26 October 2010

Walvis Bay

At the Lagoon....Flamingos

...Pelicans

...Dolphins

..and Seals

Ant and Mike enjoy lunch with a view

Pink water at the salt pans

Ant preparing for a hot hike up Dune 7 before gracefully boarding down

At last - the moment we got to see the car in the storage tent!

Monday 25 October 2010

The car, the coast and creating work

It’s been a while since the last instalment but you’ll be pleased to hear that all is well, particularly as we now have our car – hurray!!  After a gruelling 2 weeks of dealing with customs and excise it was released incurring a substantial fee for storage that I’m sure went straight into the customs official’s pockets.  Having spent a week in Windhoek we managed to get a lift from our friend, Mike, down to Walvis Bay port and waited for another 5 days. 

Walvis Bay is an interesting place.  It’s next to the country’s main holiday resort, Swakopmund, and is located between huge expanses of sand dunes and the Atlantic Ocean.  The layout feels very American with a grid-system in place (albeit not well organised) and single-storey buildings.  It’s the main port for Namibia and there are huge containers, cranes and warehouses lining the harbour, along with about 6 or 7 Portuguese fishing companies.  There is no local fishing industry which seems a shame as the workforce is there– the Portuguese have the licenses and also have huge processing and canning factories right on the harbour so it’s a very slick process.  There is also a lagoon where huge numbers of flamingos gather in addition to pelicans and a massive seal colony.  On the edge of the lagoon there are large salt pans which are pretty impressive to look at as they are various shades of vivid pink and purple due to the algae present in the water (this is also what makes the flamingos pink!)

As we had time to kill we became tourists for the day and took a catamaran trip out into the harbour and lagoon to see the seals, dolphins and pelicans close up. The dolphins followed the boat and having taken about 50 photos of them I managed to get about 2 decent shots and the rest were just waves.  There were a couple of tame seals who got onto the catamaran deck to get fish – apparently this wasn’t just a trick for the tourists; the guides had lured them onto the boat bit by bit in order to cut off fishing nets that had got wrapped around them, cutting into their skin.  Now the seals are wise to the fact that there’s a free meal on board.

We also had our first experience of ‘couch surfing’ whilst in Walvis.  For those of you not familiar with this it is essentially a networking site that enables you to offer accommodation to people who are travelling around and in turn stay with others.  The advantages are that it’s free, it’s an opportunity to meet new people and make friends, and you get a personal account of the area in which you’re staying.  We stayed with a German Social Worker volunteer and his girlfriend.  They were really friendly and took us sand boarding on Dune 7…not for the feint-hearted as it’s very steep and the sand whips your face and gets everywhere…quite an adrenaline rush though.

Eventually we got our car, and despite our fears the only thing that got stolen was the in-car fridge - not the most essential item, but none the less a useful one.  At that point we were past caring though and just having the car (minus air-con – oh no) was a relief.

Work has been progressing very slowly still.  We both decided that in order to get anything done we needed to put our issues and some suggested solutions in writing as time is ticking on and, as patient as we’re trying to be, we need to see some action!  Result!...a couple of days later we were invited to meet with the Chief Medical Officer which turned out to be at the regional management team transport meeting.  Surprisingly we had been put at the top of the agenda with regards to our move to Otjiwarongo so that we have a better chance of being able to do our jobs.  We have now been promised that by the end of this week we will have confirmation of this move…watch this space.

We have identified a couple of potential projects with the local Community Based Rehab Committees and are going to put as much effort as possible into getting them off the ground, but there are a lot of potentially limiting factors.  One is developing a business plan and trying to source funding for a fisheries project in a settlement called Okondjatu.  This is an income generating project supported by the Ministry of Fisheries to enable people with disabilities to farm fish for their own consumption and to sell to the community.  If anyone has read the book ‘Salmon Fishing in the Yemen’ this project reminds me somewhat of the un-likeliness of that story…however, there have apparently been other similar projects that have been successful elsewhere so there is hope! 

Another income generating project is being led by a volunteer based in Windhoek.  This time it’s a gardening project on a plot of land at the back of our flat.  It was started a couple of years ago but the local community seem to have lost momentum and nothing is happening there now.  There is, however, some funding from VSO to build a nursery which will help the growing process and should help protect the plants from the guinea fowl who have freedom to roam.  We have suggested that the land be subdivided into smaller allotments so that individuals or groups can have a greater responsibility and ownership of their area of land and potentially there could be raised beds etc for some people with disabilities…it’s all early days but at least there may be something we can get involved in.

We continue to see patients in the department.  Ant has made his first wrist splint today – every OT should be proud - and we’ve become adept at making cardboard and papier mache adaptive furniture for children with Cerebral Palsy.  We are trying to involve our volunteer assistant as much as possible and develop her rehab skills as we go along whilst she is encouraging our attempts at Otjiherero (having now had 2 lessons we have a few more phrases in our repertoire although I think it’ll be a long process).

I think we are being accepted more within the hospital.  We were invited to our first infection control meeting last week.  Item 4 on the agenda was the issue of slaughtering livestock on the hospital grounds.  It was agreed that this should not take place due to the risk of spreading infection….and Ant thought that having soap on the hospital wards was a priority!

Last weekend we travelled back to Swakopmund on the coast as Ant was running a 10km race (in a respectable 46 mins) There were quite a few other volunteers there too so it was a sociable weekend.  Swakopmund is a very German resort - most people speak German and it looks very much like an attractive European holiday resort.  The beaches are beautiful and if you’re brave enough (we weren’t) there’s good surfing.

This week we’re doing the 4 day 50km hike at Waterberg with 3 friends.  We’re not quite sure what to expect.  The plateau looks pretty flat from a distance but I suspect there’s a few more boulders than meet the eye!  Our food rations comprise of carbs carbs and more carbs so we’ll either be falling asleep or fuelled to go.  Hope to see some rhinos and hopefully not any snakes.

Keep us posted as always with news from home.

Love Jules xxx



Tuesday 19 October 2010

A tour around Okakarara

Would you fancy getting meat from this establishment?!

One of the smarter shabeens

Herero lady with potchi, used to cook meat and pap on an outdoor fire

Traders on Okakarara High Street do amongst other things a good business in UK premiership football gear

  It seems most people have a rusty and /or burnt out car carcass in their yard... they make good chicken coops!

The local kids are amazed by digital technology


Wednesday 6 October 2010

North of the Red Line

I have just come back 'home' after spending three weeks at various conferences, workshops and chasing car importation paperwork. One of those weeks was spent in Oshakati at a Ministry of Health workshop. Oshakati is Namibia's second city, an urban sprawl in the north of the country. The drive from Okakarara is around six hours and once you get past the Red Line, a veterinary quarantine boundary controlling livestock movement, the country changes significantly. Most of the north is communal farming land as opposed to commercial farming south of the Red Line. Many families live through subsistance farming, rearing goats and cows for their own consumption on shared farmland. There are many more villages and towns too - 60% of the population live in the far north. The landscape becomes more green and even some riverbeds remain wet in the dry season. However the biggest difference was the heat, which was easily in the mid 30s and a bit of a struggle. Oshakati is in Ovamboland rendering my developing yet basic Ojtiherero useless.

The purpose of the workshop was to review and further develop a Community Based Rehabilitation (CBR) volunteer training manual that had been piloted in some regions. It was attended by about 20 regional rehabilitation workers, occupational therapists and one physiotherapist in addition to me and another VSO volunteer. It soon became apparent that a group of the attendees were opposed to the CBR programme, which poses a greater barrier to the programme than transport or funding. Pilot regions have trained volunteers to identify and refer people with disabilities to rehabilitation workers but there has been little if any training on basic screening/assessment and clinical management skills. This would be fine if there weren't the human resources or transport challenges. In districts with no rehabilitation worker who are volunteers supposed to refer to?! There are about 80 rehabilitation professionals of varying competence servicing 2 million people in a country twice the size of France! There was a resistance to pass on skills and empower volunteers as the rehabilitation workers viewed this as a threat to their status. This is obviously ridiculous as they are needed to train and provide ongoing support to volunteers, there aren't enough of them and there are vacancies that can't be filled!

The week became a battle, although very good humoured, between this group and me and some like minded guys. We succeeded in keeping basic clinical skills core to the programme and it was actually a very enjoyable week. The programme covered chest infections and with me being the only person with respiratory experience I became the national advisor on community respiratory therapy - those 6 months on respiratory at QMC were not wasted!

At the end of the week I went to a Braai to celebrate South Africa heritage day hosted by a new Afrikaans friend I met on Coach Surfing - a social networking site for people traveling. Namibia is such a melting pot of culture due to colonial and tribal influences - languages spoke at the party included Afrikaans, German, Otjivambo, Portuguese, Norwegian and fortunately English! A late night added to the challenge of the 8 hour trip to Windhoek the following day.

Currently the car importation saga continues - I can't bear to recount the story so far. Fingers crossed it will be over soon.

Ant x